A seasoned digital strategist with over a decade of experience in web development and creative design.
Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.
The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.
A seasoned digital strategist with over a decade of experience in web development and creative design.
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